Thank you for all the positive feedback on the first part of my Mallorca series!
I can tell you: this one is going to be even better.
The first trip on our stay on Mallorca was to visit the beautiful mountain towns of Deià and Valldemossa. Because we had such a good time strolling through the small historic streets it felt only right to start our next day with another beautiful city of Mallorca. Especially since our last day was spend relaxing at the beach. We could use some activity now!
When we planned our days on Mallorca it was clear to us that we wanted to find a balance for relaxation and adventure. This day was to be the latter. We left our hotel in the dark and started the drive up across the island to the North East.
Passing farms and olive groves while we saw the sun rising slowly at the horizon was a breath taking experience. We were taken by the view so much in fact that we did not even stop for a shot. The one above being the exception. I guess it was still a little too early for us.
After visiting Deià and Valldemossa earlier I was particularly excited to visit the town of Pollença . It is not to be confused with the Port de Pollença though, even if your GPS navigation might try to tell you otherwise.
While the other towns we saw certainly were beautiful and boasted some great historic sights Pollença is, again, so very different. Something that stood out was how well balanced the mix of heritage sightseeing, great food and stores to browse is in this city. This is in no way a downgrade to other towns but something you will notice immediately.
What brought us to Pollença in the first place is the gorgeous historic centre. More specifically the incredibly long and scenic flight of stairs that leads up from the marketplace to the towns church. Climbing the 365 steps to the Calvari chapel is certainly not a relaxing stroll but elevates your point of view way above the town. In short: it is worth the effort.
It is a great feeling to see an unknown city wake up in the morning and slowly fill with life. When we arrived at the marketplace it was only us, the rising sun and the occasional, motivated jogger passing by. The air was fresh but the first, golden rays of sunlight warmed you up whenever they would brush by.
Climbing the Calvari steps at sunrise is beautiful but also challenging. Not because of the physical part but simply because every five steps upwards you want to stop and take photos. I caught myself stopping a dozen of times only in the beginning. I was sure that very next step was more stunning than the one before. It was quite the struggle.
Along the sides of the stairway you find many small, cozy houses filled with sunlight sitting on beautiful properties. Little alleyways with stray cats sunbathing and Mediterranean flowers catch your eye. Things like this let you forget all your morning struggle.
At the end of the steps, overlooking the city of Pollença, sits the chapel of Calvari. It was too early to enter the building but we wandered around the area and caught some beautiful views of the landscape in soft morning light. While the city was not yet awake, flocks of birds were circling overhead in the rising sun.
With the rising sun and number of visitors came our hunger for a second breakfast and a good coffee. While families and visitor groups started their way up the steps we sat down in a small café at the market plaza.
Nothing like a treat of fresh orange juice, coffee and some ensaïmadas, Mallorca’s unique and odd-shaped pastry.
The days on Mallorca go by so smoothly it is easy to lose track of time.
Refreshed by our snack we strolled through the streets and shops of Pollença.
You can find a lot of boutiques and interior shops selling beautiful clothing from local brands.
The day before we drove to Pollença we had picked a recommended, tapas restaurant for our lunch already. If you have read my first story you might remember our situation at Cala D’Or. This time was going to be different. After half a day of climbing stairways and strolling around the city we were ready for some delicious Majorcan lunch. While we made our way to the restaurant we walked past La Sastreria, a beautiful bistro with high ceilings, big, bright windows and tiled floors.
It was decided, the place had spoken to us.
Just a short drive away from Pollença we arrived at Cala San Vicenc. Compared to our previous beaches this one was quite big and less secluded. One half of the bay is covered in big straw sun umbrellas that make for a very picturesque scene. On the opposite side a big hotel complex seems to have emerged from the sea and forms a tall mountain of white, cubic building blocks. It is quite the contrast.
All around the bay are steep cliffs and deserted mountains partially covered in low vegetation. In the distance, you can see people lining up on the rocks in their colourful swimwear taking turns to jump into the fresh blue.
After a long nap at the beach and some refreshing dip into the water it was time for our last destination of the day.
And what a stop it would be!
Cap Formentor is the most northern point of Mallorca and boasts a scenic drive that is equally gorgeous as scary. Most of the time we would not have more than a meter or two that separated our car from plunging down the steep cliffs and colliding with oncoming cars on the other side. It was a must see for us nevertheless and proved to be a highlight of our trip.
We planned to arrive only shortly before the golden hour would set in to enjoy some dramatic lighting and long shadows. When we got to the first viewpoint Mirador des Colomer the sun was still up quite some way and we could enjoy a small hike along the path without rushing.
Something you notice when capturing nature is how there are visual and behavioural patterns everywhere. Nothing is as random as it seems. When I first spotted this bird soaring along the cliffs I couldn’t get a good shot. But be patient and wait long enough and it returns repeatedly on the same path.
As the road widens slightly you can catch a first glance at the famous Far de Formentor. The lighthouse was built in the 19th century and sits on a rock formation 300 meters above the ocean surface. It still operates as a lighting beacon for ships until today and is the highlight of the journey.
From the platform of the lighthouse you look back on the winding roads that just left behind. It is quite the accomplished feeling. You see the plain ocean below stretching endlessly to a misty, white horizon. On the other side tall, rough mountains and steep cliffs rise and fall. They are carved by the sea winds and dipped in the light of the warm sunset.
It was a great joy going through all the material and memories of this part of our travel. I hope you have enjoyed this second, adventure as well and found some inspiration along the way. After this trip to the mountains and far edges of Mallorca I have one final part to release soon. Stay with me, it will be wort your while.
As we are almost coming to the end and final part of the Mallorca series we are approaching another absolute highlight of the trip. We will explore a green desert of giant cactus and take a swooshing boat ride along the beautiful east coast of Mallorca. Make sure to tag along.
Thanks a lot.